The Keros-Naxos Seaways Project

Staircase and Drain. Trench H, whereĚýI was fortunate enough to excavate.

Sheri Kapahnke

By Sheri Kapahnke

On the Third of September I arrived on the tiny island of Kouphonisi to begin six weeks of excavation on the neighbouring island of Keros. The Keros-Naxos Seaways Project, directed by Lord Colin Renfrew and Dr. Michael Boyd, aims to accumulate data from surveys, test trenches and excavation to discover whether a relationship between Keros and its neighbouring islands can be determined. The island of Keros first came to the attention of the archaeological world after looted fragments of marble figurines began appearing on the market. In 1963, Professor Renfrew was given permission to do a survey of Keros and collect a few surface finds. After multiple seasons of excavation, the island reaped two deposits of discarded figurine fragments. The figurines were broken intentionally, only one piece of the figurine was commonly discarded and they were brought from abroad. Directly adjacent to the deposits stands an islet by the name of Dhaskalio. Surveys and test trenches were performed in past years, but more developed excavation has been the focus of this current project, and it is an extremely interesting site. The depositions from Dhaskalio and the sites on Keros, though very close together in proximity and time, are very different from one another, the reason continues to be one of the many mysteries of the Cyclades. The soil chemistry on the north-western coast of Keros and on the Islet of Dhaskalio are both saturated with evidence of metal work, although no metal ore exists on these islands. It is so far believed that metal ore was smelted on Keros and brought to Dhaskalio to be cast into objects.^[1]This movement of the stages of production is indicative of the importance of craft specialization at this time. We spent a lot of time between cutting roots discussing the romantic notions between the ritual and functional guideline of the site.

Three Pithoi. Trench H.

Present day excavations on Keros boast the title of the most technologically advanced excavations in Greece. With the iDig recording system and single context excavation, each context is given a recording within the app that provides photogrammetry, photographs, information on all finds, pottery analysis, flotation conclusions, soil chemistry and phytolith data. The goal of this type of recording is to attempt to lessen the destruction of archaeological processes, and allow future archaeologists to reconstruct the excavation and find information otherwise destroyed. The project also aims to produce results from ceramic analysis, flotation and soil chemistry daily, in order to give the correct amount of attention to important areas of the excavation area.

Stone mould for a spearhead. Found in Trench H.Ěý

In addition to excavations on the rocky islet of Dhaskalio, a small team excavated test trenches on Keros. It is an incredible experience to trek the rough terrain on the island, surrounded by the smell of thyme and eating lunch under ragged juniper bushes. Unlike Dhaskalio, where very few living things other than lizards and a ragged rat (who ate unattended sandwiches), Keros often treated you with the idyllic scene of a goat parade nestled in front of the gorgeous Aegean and the hills of the island.

View of Dhaskalio from Keros

The rugged yet rewarding excavation experience contrasted our time on Kouphonisi, lazily swimming on the main beach with brightly painted boats or lounging on the rocks at Pori beach. Simple sandwiches on excavation were followed by dinners of delicious fish, the best lasagna I have ever had and raki for a nightcap. The lizards seen on Keros were outnumbered on Kouphonisi by the infamous stray cat population. Those on a boat tour to see Keros and Dhaskalio would see from a distance, the archaeologists, carrying a variety of strange artifacts: multitudes of stone disks, Kouphonisi pebbles, pottery, shell and bone, as well as the iconic blue flotation bags. On Kouphonisi these same tourists would see us carrying our research tools, iced cappuccinos and possibly a recent purchase from the jeweler. We blended in with the rest until we returned to our base before dinner to wash pottery, sort flotation residue and receive a lecture from Professor Renfrew and other exceptional academics we had the pleasure of working with. Although one settlement is under the dirt, the similarities between excavation of this Early Bronze Age site and modern day life on Kouphonisi extend to experiencing life alongside stones stairs, stone walls, metal craftsmanship and drainage systems.

Partial view of Keros from Kouphonisi. Very tiny conical island of Dhaskalio to the far right.

When thinking upon my experience at Keros, I miss the incredible team members I experienced it with, and I marvel at the work we accomplished. We are all lucky to be seeing the incredible amount of technology that continues to be utilized in the archaeological world, but it astounds me to think that human labour will continuously be the bulk of progress. Archaeologists with various experiences working to read the soil and the material in the moment will always be essential to understanding the information remaining from our heritage.Ěý

All photographs are reproduced with permissions from the Keros-Naxos Seaways Project.

by Shamus McCoy with pictures by Shamus

Shamus McCoy

As a student of Classical history, one might have expected that I have already experienced the wonders of Rome; having been awed by the magnificent architecture, or even by the intricacies of the smaller artifacts to be found in the museums across the region. Though it would only be after two full years of studies within the Classics that I had the opportunity to experience such things in person- and perhaps this would be for the best. A stunning trip, led in part by ĐÓ°ÉÔ­´´â€™s Professor Elizabeth Klaassen, would be my first experience in the very place which I have devoted my studies to. Naturally, I will now seek to lay out a few of the many breathtaking sites I had the opportunity to be witness to in my first trip to the Eternal City.

Figure 1. Structures at the base of Trajan’s market.

I would first like to touch upon the roads. Surely all roads lead to Rome, though this saying falls short of expressing this great hallmark of Roman infrastructure to be found within the great city itself. As such, it’s hard to walk a few minutes in anydirection without stumbling upon one. Though perhaps the best, and my preferred example, within Rome were those roads at Trajan’s market. The majesty of Trajan’s market aside, if you were to turn the corner of the market on the ground level, you would find yourself on a near perfect Roman road, bordered by what I can only imagine as small shops or living quarters (see figure 1). As one who truly appreciates the study of the common people within this great historical period, I found this to be rather exciting- just the ability to begin to reconstruct for myself what life might have looked like in Ancient Rome was exhilarating. Of course, it would not just be the “Roman” roads we would see on this trip, but those built in other cities as well, notably other well preserved areas such as Ostia, Herculaneum, and of course Pompeii. I do hope this has put across just how thrilled I was to see these roads, as they were one of my most anticipated “sites” as I was preparing to leave for Italy.

The high walls of Rome were another point that I was relatively taken by. My interests being set mostly in the late Classical period, the Aurelian walls excited me, being one of the more obvious points of architecture in the city from this point in time. Though it must have been their condition which really took me by surprise, as many points of this wall look as though they could still fend of an attack today! Not to mention these great walls were to be found across the city, including across the street from the first hotel we stayed at in Rome (aptly named after the Porta Maggiore, a large gate standing across the street from it in full view, see figure 2). Who would have known even such a simple structure as a wall would be so exciting?

Figure 2. The Porta Maggiore, as seen from our hotel.

I will leave walls for now to move onto the striking port town of Ostia (see figure 3). Being in the streets of Ostia, I imagine, is as close to standing in ancient Rome as you will find. With a small number of tourists, you’re able to sit in the silence of the city and truly appreciate the reality of where you are. The somewhat overgrown fields of poppies surrounding the homes of those long gone is quite awe inspiring, and it brings you to an easy peace; and tucked away in this peacefulness is a history, be it through the beautiful bath house mosaics, or even the ruins of the once-lively thermopolia. Of course, if you look hard enough you can reveal Discord, as she shows her face in some rather imperial-looking inscriptions. Look close enough, and you will see names chiselled out of the very stone they once inhabited, the signs of a perhaps less peaceful damnatio memoriae. Though truly what this site gives you is a view of a relatively unaltered Roman city (Unlike Rome, with the hundreds of years of continual habitation), and such an opportunity is not to be missed.

Though I could make comments on all aspects of the city of Rome, I should limit myself to these few examples to highlight my trip. While it is incredible to see the immense scale of the architectural projects of the emperors, I believe that it is through seeing the architecture that effected the daily lives of the many which shakes you to your core. As such sites allow you an understanding of all those who once lived out their lives in the very places I was lucky enough to admire this past summer.

Figure 3. The quiet streets of Ostia.

Ally Chapman

The first thing I noticed upon leaving Rome and heading for Naples was the change of scenery. Gone were the busy streets of Rome replaced with towering mountains covered in olive trees. The landscape was beautiful and set the tone for the wonderful sights that we would see as we explored Naples and the ancient sites it had to offer.

View from Tiberius’ Grotto, Sperlonga

One of the first locations our group visited upon leaving Rome was Tiberius’ Grotto at Sperlonga. It is evident why Tiberius chose this location as the grotto faces the blue Mediterranean Sea and mountains surround it from behind. Within the grotto itself, the empty spaces where marble statues used to stand are stark reminders of what was once a magnificent dining room but now seems like an empty cave to those who do not know its history. The site’s museum houses what remains of these statues and while the depiction of the blinding of Polyphemus is mostly complete and spectacular with its attention to the fine details of the human form, the other statues are mostly destroyed. From what remains of these sculptures, it is easy to see that they would have been very impressive and it is quite disappointing to witness the fragmented condition in which they have been discovered and displayed.

The next day of our trip to Naples was spent exploring the town of Pompeii. To most students of classical antiquity, Pompeii may seem overrated since it is such a large tourist destination. However, I have always been drawn to Pompeii because of the beautiful artwork that has been preserved there and I was particularly excited to see the mystery fresco within the Villa of the Mysteries. I was not disappointed and was impressed by the size and vibrancy of the mystery fresco. Even though Pompeii is very tourist oriented, the extent of the site and all the different buildings made it an interesting, while also exhausting, day.

The Mystery Fresco from the Villa of the Mysteries, Pompeii

Our third day in Naples was spent exploring the lesser known locations that were affected by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 C.E. One such location was the Villa Poppaea at Oplontis which has many beautifully preserved frescos. During our visit I spent at least fifteen minutes in the villa’s atrium examining the massive fresco that decorated the walls. My takeaway was that the ability to survey fresco up close and with context is a massive privilege after spending much of my degree analyzing ancient art from pictures I found on google. After this we went to Herculaneum and while it is much smaller than Pompeii, it is no less interesting. The location offers a magnificent view of Mount Vesuvius and I was able to take some cool photos where the clouds made it seem like smoke was rising out of the volcano. The mountain possesses such an imposing presence that its looming figure becomes a constant reminder of just how much destruction it is capable of causing. Where Pompeii feels like a Roman theme park, filled with tourists, signs, and guides, Herculaneum feels like a ghost town. Its smaller scale, the preserved pieces of wood, and the casts of skeletons found in the boathouses creates an eerie atmosphere that forces you to confront the terrible tragedy that befell the unfortunate Romans who once called this place home.

The next day was Festa della Repubblica and most locations were closed so we spent the day exploring the city of Naples. We journeyed to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli in the afternoon and got to wander around whichever exhibits interested us the most. I headed straight for the marble sculptures and was overjoyed with the extensive collection that the museum had on display. I was able to see some of my favourite pieces including the Doryphoros, the Farnese Hercules, and the Tyrannicides, which are much larger than I ever expected. The museum also owns the iconic Alexander mosaic which they display on the wall so that it can be fully appreciated. It is crafted out of the tiniest tesserae and made with such detail that one could mistake it for a fresco if they were not aware of its original context. The final exhibit that stood out to me was the fresco collection. Many of these iconic frescos have been used as cover photos for our Greek and Roman textbooks and being able to see them in person was an exciting experience.

View of Mount Vesuvius, Herculaneum

We took the bus out to Cumae the next morning and made the hike up to the acropolis. After a lecture on wall construction, we headed back down the hill and into the sibyl’s cave made famous by Vergil’s Aeneid. We finished the day with a trip to Vergil’s Tomb and it was more of a trek than we were equipped to complete after a long day of exploring Cumae. Not only do you have to walk along a long windy path up the hill, but you also have to climb a flight of narrow stairs, walk across the top of a tunnel going through the hill, and descend a few more stairs before actually entering the tomb. The interior is small and only a few people are allowed entrance at a time. There is a large window that offers a breathtaking view of thesurrounding landscape and is the perfect spot to take photos. In the centre of the tomb stands a tripod where visitors can leave offerings in memory of this revered poet. There were drawings, essays, and poems. Judging by the variety of skills and languages, visitors of all ages and nationalities have come here to pay their respects to Vergil.

As we packed up and headed back to Rome, our final stop in the Naples area was Capua. Capua is home to the second largest amphitheatre, with only the Colosseum surpassing it in size. Unlike the Colosseum, we were able to explore the passages beneath the surface of the amphitheatre. Most of these tunnels are still covered and they seem to go on forever. The minimal lighting, overgrown foliage, and winding nature of these passages gives the illusion of a never-ending maze separate from the world above. It is almost impossible to envision this tranquil underground world filled with the hustle and bustle of wild beasts, gladiators, and slaves all preparing for the extravagant spectacles that Romans enjoyed at amphitheatres such as this one. Capua also has a magnificent Mithraeum that has well preserved wall paintings. The sides of the long temple are painted with figures that are fading and almost unidentifiable and the roof features a cluster of stars. However, at the end of the temple there is a large painting of Mithras killing the bull. Some places show damage but the image of Mithras is easily identifiable and his clothes remain a bright blue and red that immediately draw the eye. It felt like a special privilege to be allowed to enter this space and get a brief glimpse into the Mithraic mysteries.

Entrance to the Sibyl’s Cave, Cumae

From the secluded grotto of Tiberius to the underground world of Capua, our trip to Naples offered a window into the Roman world that seemed more personal than the crowded monuments of Rome. As an admirer of ancient art, Naples was the perfect location to appreciate the wonderful sculptures, mosaics, and frescoes that were preserved by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius. I hope to someday return to Naples and spend more time in Pompeii and the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli and maybe I’ll be lucky enough to share all the knowledge I gained here with another group of Greek and Roman students.

Tripod within Vergil’s Tomb, Mergellina

Underneath the amphitheatre, Capua

Vergil’s Tomb, Mergellina

Studying Abroad in Edinburgh by Samantha Albanese, a 3^rd year History student minoring in Archaeology, with pictures by Samantha.

To me, spending a semester abroad was exactly what it meant to ‘make the most of your time at university’. I knew that I wanted to study in a place that was rich in history and had a wide variety of interesting classes. Based on this, I quickly chose the University of Edinburgh in Scotland. The faculty of History, Classics, and Archaeology here is filled with phenomenal teachers who are experts in their fields and who teach exciting class material. I have been lucky to take fantastic classes in archaeology at ĐÓ°ÉÔ­´´, but here, I was able to expand and learn about subjects that I was always interested in but did not have as much access to in Canada.

Westminster Abbey

Something else that I love about living in Scotland is the sheer beauty of this country. I get to live and work in Edinburgh’s Old Town which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I am constantly taken aback by how beautiful the historic buildings and cobblestone streets of this city are. I have also been lucky enough to explore more of Scotland in general, and I can’t imagine ever growing tired of the Highlands. The countless mountains, lochs, and rivers are so breathtaking and are so integrally connected to the culture and history of Scotland. This area of Scotland almost feels magical- in fact, I may have stuck my face in a freezing cold river in the Highlands for seven seconds because legend says that those who do will be granted eternal beauty, by none other than faeries!

Etruscan Sarcophagus in the British Museum

Participating in a semester abroad in Europe has not only allowed me to study at a prestigious school and explore a new and beautiful country but has also further benefitted my academic pursuits by bringing me closer to the actual objects that I am studying. Being in Britain allows me to be closer to many archaeological sites of interest, particularly Hadrian’s Wall, Stonehenge, and Skara Brae, to name just a few. On my reading week, I was lucky enough to travel to Berlin, Germany. I was only there for a few days and I knew that there were too many museums I wanted to visit and not enough time. I was lucky enough to visit the Neues Museum and the Pergamon Museum. There, I was able to see in person the wonderful artifacts that have always interested me, and that I have learned so much about both at ĐÓ°ÉÔ­´´ and Edinburgh. At the Neues, I was able to see some of Priam’s Treasure from Troy, and many artifacts from Rome and Second Intermediate Period Egypt. At the Pergamon, I was able to view the Market Gate of Miletus, the Ishtar Gate and so many wonderful artifacts from Assyria, Sumer, and Babylon. You can’t imagine the grandeur and historical weight of these artifacts until you see them in person.

Life is made by the opportunities that we do or do not take, and I feel so fortunate that I was able to take advantage of the opportunity to study abroad in Edinburgh. My studies so far in Edinburgh and my trip to Berlin have only further heightened my love for history and archaeology and I’m so excited to see where my adventure here takes me as an individual and an academic.

The Elgin Marbles in the British Museum

Priam’s Treasure

Walter

Walking the Via Egnatia with Walter

by Walter Wilmot, with pictures by Walter.

Last year I was continuously inspired as I attended Marianne Goodfellow’s course “Issues in Classics: Travel and Sightseeing in the Ancient World.”Ěý Our text was rich and worthy, Travel in the Ancient WorldĚýby Lionel Casson.Ěý Some of the early content that fascinated me was a mention of the ancient ‘rut roads’ to Greek sanctuaries and the trail of mythological repute from Corinth to Megara above the Scironic Rocks that can still be seen today.Then one day she mentioned the Via Egnatia.Ěý It is a Roman road, about 1000 kilometers in length, six meters in width and “paved” with stones, that stretched from the Adriatic coast of what is now Albania across the Balkans, past Lake Ohrid, Heraclea Lyncestis, Pella, Thessalonica, Amphipolis, and Philippi, all the way to Constantinople.

The Roman Via re-surfaced and upgraded by the Italian military in 1940 after their invasion of Albania using the timeless technology of the then impoverished southern Europe

On my “bucket list” has always been the desire to visit southern Europe and so Marianne’s mere mention of this Roman road led me to fantasize about tramping along its stone surface – if parts of it could be found.Ěý I read that the road was built in the second century BC as the continuation of the Via Appia, and that it has a long history and purpose that continues to this day.ĚýIts importance for military forces, economies, and communication is well documented in the book The Egnatian WayĚýby Firmin O’Sullivan (1972). ĚýMadam Google led me to the Via Egnatia Foundation which has published a guide book for travelers today to follow the route.ĚýI realized that there was no going back.ĚýWith my experience of having twice walked the “El Camino,” that Medieval pilgrimage route across northern Spain, and a tablet in my backpack with both a good translation app and mapping app, I left Ottawa in late March 2017.

I began my walk in DurrĂŤs or Dyrrachium, as it was known in ancient Illyria, a terminusĚýof the Via Egnatia on the Albanian coast, the other being Apollonia a little further south. ĚýAlbania is very poor; unemployment, organized crime and corruption are high, and there is no trust in the politicians.Ěý Locals described their country to me as “broken,” comparable to North Korea, as a vast prison with most young people wanting to emigrate or at least get a legal work permit for somewhere, anywhere.Ěý I do not think, however, that you would find a more hospitable people.ĚýI believe it related to their cultural sense of honour.Ěý Just ask for directions along the road and you will be offered a glass of homemade raki, a meal, and even a sleepover! Ěý(I was given a free meal in a restaurant, a collective taxi ride, and small items in a corner store as presents.)Ěý Albania is extremely safe for travellers and it has the least tourist infrastructure of any European country.Ěý That is a good thing.Ěý You can visit the sites such as Apollonia or the World Heritage site at Butrint tourist-free; when the daily tour bus leaves…silence, peace and presence, hours of it, unlike sites in Greece where I ended my journey four months later.

The legacy of the Roman road continues in Albania today with the Rruga Autostrada Egnatia, reconstruction of which has exposed Roman DurrĂŤs near the Venetian Tower.Ěý (While I was there French archaeologists found a human skeleton just beneath the tarmac.)Ěý I found the city’s archaeological museum very Zen, very Roman. ĚýFrom DurrĂŤs on my first day along the Roman road itself, I walked as far as Pequin (pronounced Peh-cheen) and I saw ten to twelve donkeys.ĚýMy first sighting was a donkey saddled with a large load and accompanied by a man who was talking on his cell phone.ĚýLater on I took a rest by the roadside and heard two peasant women chatting.Ěý As I looked over, I realized it was one woman talking on her cell phone. ĚýGlobalization!

An Albanian and his donkey on the Roman road

Before I continued eastwards from Pequin toward Lake Ohrid, my goal for this stage of my pilgrimage, I made a detour and stopped in Apollonia, a Greek colony founded in 588 BC, once home to about 60,000 people but abandoned in the Middle Ages.Ěý It took me a few hours to find the ancient acropolis since there was no signage.Ěý I found out that it had been ruthlessly tunneled and bunkered when, under communist dictator Enver Hoxha, the country was mobilized for a defensive war.Ěý Pillboxes and bunkers, a minimum of 200,000 of them, were built all over the country including the Apollonian acropolis and in strategic places along the route of the Via Egnatia.

Some of Hoxha’s bunkers where sheep graze along the road

The nymphaeumĚýjust below the acropolis at Apollonia was discovered during construction of the bunkers and excavation followed.Ěý But again, I had trouble finding the site due to the absence of signs.Ěý The ruins made me realize that the nymphaeum, sacred to Pan and described by Strabo, must have once been magnificent to see.Ěý Today the ubiquitous Albanian sheep graze happily among the ruins.Ěý I walked around a Roman-era street corner in the Apollonian agora, only 5% excavated to date, with its shops, the bouleuterion, and theatre.Ěý I also saw the Apollo AgyieusĚýobelisk; as patron of public places, streets, houses, and colonists, he was worshipped in this form and not in a temple.

The Roman Nymphaeum at Apollonia

Over the next few weeks I continued along the way to places like Elbasan, identified with Mansio Scampa, a Roman “stopping place” along the road, and Ad QuintumĚý(at Five Miles), a mutatioĚýor “changing place”.Ěý Few mutationesĚýand mansionesĚýhave been identified archaeologically though they are listed in the Roman imperial Antonine Itinerary, as well as the Bordeaux Itinerary written by a Christian pilgrim in 333 AD. The remains of Ad Quintum, which include a Roman bath, were discovered accidentally when exposed after a landslide in 1968.Ěý On the steep slopes along the Shkumbin River (ancient Genusus), which the road follows for some distance, these landslides are common and must have made road maintenance a labour intensive challenge for the Romans – and for the Byzantine and Ottoman administrations that followed.

The Via Egnatia along the steep slopes high above the Shkumbin River with two bunkers just visible

I reached my destination of Lin with its 5^thcentury AD basilica above Lake Ohrid after four weeks on the road.Ěý I took my time.Ěý I watched the locals walk to their fields every day at 7:30 am and return late afternoon.ĚýNot a machine or motor to be heard.ĚýI loved it.Ěý I rested here a while and reflected on my journey which at times was physically demanding and very difficult but two aspects of it made it quite special.Ěý One was the landscape itself, wild in places with rugged mountains and the river below.ĚýIn some villages there were no cars, just the sound of roosters, the odd cow, and birds. I came across a number of Moslem cemeteries in some beautiful spots along the road, the burials facing northeast looking towards Mecca.

A Moslem cemetery along the Via Egnatia

The second aspect of my journey that made it memorable was the kindness of strangers.Ěý I never met a more hospitable people.Ěý They fed me cheese, lamb, bread and butter, veggies, from their sweat and toil.Ěý They gave me a bed for the night and 500 ml of their homemade raki for the road. ĚýI learned of the hard life of these people; one young man I met, a heavy equipment mechanic, earns $1.00 per hour, 6 days per week, no sick leave or vacation pay.ĚýHe feels fortunate to even have found work.Ěý He learned English by working illegally in Greece, as most Albanian males have done.ĚýImmigration authorities discovered and deported him.

The kindness of strangers

I left the Via EgnatiaĚýat Lake Ohrid (with Albania to the west and the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia (FYROM) to the east), and I headed east to the hot spring resort of Sandanski, Roman Parthicopolis, in Bulgaria where I spent three weeks on an archaeological excavation with the summer program of the American Research Center in Sofia (ARCS) Foundation at the site of a 6^thcentury basilica.ĚýThe final leg of my pilgrimage was a three-week tour through Greece with the American School of Classical Studies at Athens.Ěý It was an honour to experience it through this gold standard of archaeological institutions.Ěý I finally returned to Ottawa more than four months later.

I never anticipated that passing mention of one Roman road in Marianne’s classroom in Paterson Hall could have ever had such consequences for me (nor, for that matter, did she). ĚýAnd it was not just that delightful road.Ěý One day early in the course, she had mentioned Sounion.Ěý So one of the last acts of my pilgrimage was to see Lord Byron’s signature where he carved it himself in 1810 on the marble of Poseidon’s temple.Ěý To quote from his poem:

Place me on Sunium’s marbled steep,

Where nothing, save the waves and I,

May hear our mutual murmurs sweep;

There, swan-like, let me sing and die:

— (Don Juan, Canto III “The Isles of Greece”, Section 86, stanza 16)

Lord Byron’s signature at Sounion